We were on our way for further learning and experiences after leaving Dubrovnik behind. As we traveled towards Mostar, we passed Ston in the distance. Ston is known for their salt production. The defense wall was built to protect their commodity, which was very clear from the distance.

A little further on we stopped to speak with the owner of an oyster and mussels business. I sampled an oyster, just wished I had some pepper. Another member of the group tried the mussels; I guess we were the brave ones one thing we know for sure they were fresh.

We headed to Mostar for lunch and a visit to the old city. On our journey, we were able to see the Peljesac bridge that links the peninsular to the main land.

Mostar is a historic town in the valley of the Neretva River, which was developed as an Ottoman frontier. A famous and popular site is the Old Bridge, but also of sinificance is the Stari Most Bridge. The Ottoman Empire or referred to as the Turkish Empire, historically controlled a good portion of southeast Europe. The Old Town is smaller than that in Dubrovnik but is extremely charming and colorful.

After a five to ten minutes walk, we arrived in the area close to the iconic bridge. The cobble stone streets lined on both sides with shops selling various articles such as clothing collectibles and souvenirs of all sorts. We had lunch at Sdrvan restaurant. This restaurant had a Turkish flair, the service was excellent and I enjoyed the meal. The workers were dressed in traditional uniforms, note picture below.

Some of my group decided to walk onto The Old Bridge a short distance from the restaurant. A few of us went down a few steps across from the restaurant that took us on a stony bank of the river. You have to be careful going down the narrow steps, about two or more flights, and the crowd going back and forth. If you are planning to visit, take this option if your time is limited.

Note the narrow cobbled stone streets

There are more things to do and see in Mostar that spending a day would allow for, but for a short visit the experience was great. There were a lot of people, the weather was great and the view was picture perfect. What I noticed here that I did not see in Dubrovnik or Kotor was children and young people begging for money and food. I did not notice parents with the children. Some guests dining on the outside patio at the Sadrvan restaurant invited one of the little girls to their table but I also saw the hostess chasing the kids away.
As we continue heading into Sarajevo the Neretva River meanders along the highway.

After about two hours drive, we arrived in Sarajevo. We stayed at the Hotel President that was located close to the Old Town which was great. We were close to what i describe as where the action is. Everything was in reasonably close proximity if it was for dining or just socializing over a cup of coffee. Sections specialized in certain products displaying their craftsmanship, for example, working with copper. Also, in this area, you find churches, different architectures, and a wide range of places to eat. While in the hotel I could hear the prayer call for the Muslims.

After a brief orientation walk through portions of the old city, we met for dinner at a local restaurant, Dulagin Dvor. We were introduced to a popular Bosnian meal of cevapi and somun served with a healthy portion of minced onions, tomatoes and sour cream. Cevapi is minced meat rolled into a sausage; more like breakfast sausages, and somun is similar to pita bread.

The next day, we embarked on a more in-depth exploration of the city.

During the siege, Enes Sivac made sculptures which now hangs on tight ropes over the River and symbolizes cultural resistance to aggression.

Sarajevo has a lot of history particularly regarding the siege in the nineties and although a beautiful city there are scars. During the siege the Tunnel of Hope was built. The tunnel was constructed by digging from two opposite sides or neighborhoods, Dobrinja and Butmir. Once completed was used to transport supplies such as food, arms, fuel etc. We had the opportunity to visit the museum and view a video depicting the wartime.

When traveling with OATS, tour organizer, a home hosted experience is always included. This might take the form of an overnight stay in a native’s home, a prepared meal, or a visit where it is just a social event to discuss cultural practices. We visited with Amelia a native who experienced the war while pregnant. She shared her experience and perspectives post war and how her children were doing now. She lived and currently resides in the region called Sniper Alley. Amelia prepared a meal which consisted of soup, large onion stuffed with minced meat, potatoes and fresh vegetables.

We ate at the restaurant, Kiopa, just across the street from the cathedral. I would highly recommend it as the service was excellent and the food was good. Be mindful if you plan to visit the portions are large. I ordered lamb chops, and I was served about five chops and I also learned that lamb chop is eaten with the fingers. I hope my sharing of some of our meals will answer questions I am often asked.

We said goodbye to Sarajevo and headed back to a different region of Croatia and on our way we stopped at this village for lunch. After lunch we spent a little time exploring the compound.